Many common Uromastyx health problems can be prevented with proper husbandry. Proper housing includes a dry enclosure, safe substrate, adequate temperature and basking areas, and plenty of space. Humidity can cause respiratory problems and scale rot. Improper substrate such as walnut shells or calci-sand can cause impaction in the gut if swallowed. Improper diet can also result in impaction, as well as vitamin/mineral deficiencies such as Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD).
Always be ready to take your Uromastyx to the vet if the reptile is visibly ailing. Reptiles in general are good at masking health problems because in the wild, the weak get taken out by predators or become ostracized from the group. It is a good idea to have a fecal scan run on new additions to the collection or at a sign of illness. See our Reptile Resources page for links to reptile vets.
Always quarantine your new addition(s) for 30-90 days before introducing them to other animals. Always be prepared to keep animals in solitary enclosures in case of fighting.
Diet-Related Health
Most diet-related health problems in Uromastyx lizards can be prevented by offering a highly varied diet of leafy greens, vegetables, flowers, beans, seeds and a limited amount of fruit.
MBD
Metabolic Bone Disease or MBD is the most common affliction of captive reptiles, and Uromastyx are no exception. MBD is a spectrum of disorders related to calcium deficiency, most cases are diet related. The bioavailability of calcium is determined not just by overall calcium in the diet but also the interaction of other vitamins & minerals such as vitamin D3 and phosphorus. When the right balance is not available in the diet, calcium is pulled from the bones.
Signs of MBD include soft jaws, disfigured bones, swollen joints, trembling and general signs of ill health. Calcium is for more than just bones. Internal problems include lack of muscle control, loss of liver, kidney and nerve function and problems in blood clotting. Severe cases of MBD do result in death, usually from heart failure. The healthy level of calcium in the bloodstream is roughly 1%. Over-supplementation with calcium is rare but possible.
Providing a balanced diet is crucial to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease in Uromastyx lizards. Choosing foods that are both high in calcium AND low in phosphorus are the best way to give uros the building blocks these reptiles need to function properly.
The final component in calcium absorption is Vitamin D3, either via diet supplementation or UVB exposure.
Dehydration
Provide your Uromastyx with either a humid hide or allow him to burrow to regulate his humidity needs. Uros will retreat to their burrows at night after digesting their food; in the wild, they have extensive and deep burrows and move around accordingly. Burrows up to 3 feet have been discovered, with humidity levels ranging from 50-90% depending on the season and rainfall. Temperatures are fairly constant at 70-75 degrees.
Under most circumstances, Uromastyx don’t need water bowls and should instead be provided with plant foods with high water content. Additionally, providing a light mist on the sides of the enclosure in the morning once a week to allow them to drink should be fine as long as the humidity levels don’t exceed 40% for an extended period of time.
Emaciated uros that have gone off-feed are also dehydrated. When they don’t eat, their stomachs shrink, their energy level drops and appetite is suppressed. Therefore, it is important to offer drinking water for these individuals. Dehydration also affects their ability to process proteins, so remove any beans/legumes from the diet. No insects!
It is important to address the issue of dehydration before resorting to force feeding. The impact of this can affect health later on. Get appropriate vet care in issues of severe dehydration and starvation before attempting force feeding.
High-Protein Diets
Excess protein is hazardous to dehydrated Uromastyx lizards because it over-taxes the kidneys and liver. Over time, too much protein for any Uromastyx can affect kidney and liver function. For tortoises, a safe level of protein has been estimated at an average 4%[1]. Strive to keep the amount of protein from plant foods low by avoiding excessive feeding of beans and other legumes. Green legumes such as alfalfa, clover, etc. are good to feed in moderation.
Do not feed insects to your Uromastyx. Insects are not part of their native diet for most species. They are unnecessary at best and dangerous at worst.
Gut Flora
Herbivorous reptiles such as Uromastyx species are uniquely adapted to the local environment. They do not have the same digestive systems as mammals, with their masticating teeth, multi-chambered stomachs and cud-chewing, that are useful when eating tough vegetation. Uromastyx rely entirely on their gut flora (and possibly small stones) to break down plant matter and extract nutrients. This is a generally inefficient process and keeping the right balance of microorganisms is very important. This gut flora includes “beneficial bacteria” and even protozoans[1] and nematodes[2]. This is combined with the uro’s preferred 130 degree basking temperature to digest their meals.
The use of antibiotics, such as Baytril, and parasite treatments, such as Panacur, will kill off these microorganisms, making it difficult for the Uromastyx to digest food. NutriBAC df is a respected brand of probiotic. Repashy “Veggie Dust” also contains beneficial ingredients to boost gut flora.
Refusing Food
Most of the time, Uromastyx are fine if they skip meals for up to a week. Common causes are food preferences, changes of season, stress, low temps, and sadly, illness.
In the wild, Uromastyx change foods with the season, and different species tend to eat slightly different foods. Ornate Uros eat a lot of acacia flowers and tend to go nuts for any small yellow flower (such as from dandelions or budding wild arugula). Don’t drastically change the diet from one day to the next, but rotate foods in and out gradually.
Normal Changes in Appearance
As your young Uromastyx grows and matures, you will see general changes in appearance. Males and females (depending on species) will gain color and some will exude a waxy secretion from their femoral pores on their inner thighs.
Shedding
Reptiles shed as they grow and their skin is renewed. Unlike people, whose skin cells slough off one at a time, most reptiles like snakes, geckos and other lizards, tend to go into shed all at once; snakes have an easier time pulling it all off at once because they are unhindered by appendages. However, with our friend the Uromastyx, the lizard may be in a state of constant shed throughout the warm seasons! Often they look like half-peeled bananas. It’s best to not pull off their skin unless it’s restricting their circulation around their wrists and toes.
Uromastyx will often eat their delicious skins, regaining some of the nutrients that went into creating it in the first place. Eating the shed also minimizes the chance of a predator coming across it and alerting them to the presence of a nearby meal.
Snalt
The salt glands of Uromastyx, as well as other herbivorous and marine reptiles, is an adaptation of the lateral nasal gland. This comes in handy by removing salts these animals encounter through diet or other environmental exposure. Since most reptiles do not produce liquid urine, evolution has adapted the lateral nasal gland to eliminate these substances as “snalt”. [3][4]
The term “snalt” refers to the salt-snot, the ring of white deposits around the lizard’s nostrils. It is composed of excess salts in the diet. Lentils, papaya, carrots, corn, and sweet potatoes are comparatively high in sodium and potassium which form these salts. They shouldn’t be avoided as they are highly nutritious foods, just keep them on rotation. This “white stuff” on your uro’s nose can simply be wiped away and will fall off on its own.
Stress & Handling
Whenever you suspect your Uromastyx is not well or not adjusting to its home, you should stop handling. Even relatively friendly reptiles such as Uros are stressed by too much handling. How much is too much? You don’t want to handle daily if you see signs of stress, hiding during the day in warm weather, and not feeding.
Sexing
Mature male Uromastyx are often brightly colored and easily distinguished from females in this way. However, for immature animals or to make sure you don’t have a “male mimic”, you can sex uros by gently lifting the tail and looking for a “v” or “u” shaped crease starting at the base of the tail extending back. The bulges on either side are the hemipenes of the male. The tail body of a female will appear more uniform as it does not house the male reproductive organs!
Other secondary sexual characteristics include coloring mentioned above, wider, larger heads and “jowls” in males. Both males and females can have femoral pores, males tend to have larger ones.
Never probe a Uromastyx! This can cause harm to the internal tissues and can be very stressful to the reptile. Probing is for use on snakes but is still not recommended for novices. Uros should not be “popped” either. 
Disorders & Diseases
Tail Rot
Keeping a Uromastyx in an enclosure that is too moist, or failing to dry them off after a soak can lead to tail rot. Bacteria or fungi can build up in the tail crevices and lead to infection or “rot”. The tail turns dark and can fall off. A trip to the vet is always advisable, as problems with tail tips could also be dry gangrene from an injury and not tail rot.
Impaction
Undigested food or foreign objects (rocks, hair, wood chips, bark, vermiculite from potting soil, etc) can form a mass in the digestive system and cause an impaction. Signs of impaction include inability to defecate, or straining to go, and passing narrow, skinny poops. If you’ve noticed a lack of poo in your enclosure, and your Uromastyx is lethargic, this could be signs of infection or other illness.
Soaking in warm water can help pass the blockage, but if normal bowel movement does not return quickly, so don’t put off a vet visit! Impactions can cause death if not dealt with quickly.
Maintaining good husbandry and making sure foods are high in moisture and free from dirt and debris will cut down on the chances of your Uromastyx becoming impacted. Improper substrates, especially crushed walnut shell and cacli-sand also cause impactions.
Photo-Kerato Conjunctivitis
Faulty UVB bulbs can cause eye irritation and often blindness.
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm is a great resource if you suspect your Uromastyx or other reptile has photo-kerato conjunctivitis.
Other Diseases
Uromastyx are generally hardy, but improper husbandry or exposure to infected reptiles can introduce viral, bacterial, or fungal infections. ALWAYS follow proper quarantine when obtaining new animals. If your uro appears ill and you don’t know why, please take your pet to a qualified reptile vet!
Notes & references:
1: http://www.anapsid.org/dietcons.html
2: http://www.deerfernfarms.com/Uromastyx_Care.htm
3: http://bio.research.ucsc.edu/~barrylab/Lisa/PDFs/Hazarddissabstract.pdf
4:http://scottishreptiles.forumsmotion.com/t89-sodium-and-potassium-secretion-by-iguana-salt-glands
Hi I’m Spencer my Uromastyx has been at my house for about a week and he has a shedding problem because there are skin patches also haven’t seen any poo so I don’t know what to do. He also stays in his little hut the hole day and night I open it and force him out somedays then he just sits in the sun and goes back in at night.
HELP ME OUT WHAT SHOULD I DO
Hi Spencer!
It’s very normal for Uromastyx to shed in patches. In fact, it always seems like they are in some state of shed. It’s not recommended to pull off the shed. Do you mean that the skin looks blotchy or irritated?
How are you keeping your Uro? What size tank, and what temperatures on each end of the tank? Do you have a basking light? What are you feeding? All of these can have an effect on your Uro’s health. However, since you’ve only had him a week, it could be possible he is just being shy and is not used to his new home yet. You can help him feel more comfortable by taping paper over the sides of the tank so he can’t see you or other movement around his enclosure. Avoid handling as well. Put his food out in the early morning before he wakes up. Once he is settled in, he should start eating his leafy greens and basking.
Some Uromastyx species are more active than others. Our Ornates are couch potatoes compared to our Egyptians. Individuals also have their own temperament. As long as he starts eating and basking in the next two weeks, he should be fine. If he starts to look dehydrated or remains lethargic, you should take him to a reptile vet. They might want a fresh poop sample, which may be difficult if he’s not eating & pooping. Good luck with him!
I have an issue with both of my uromastyx, they are both females who have lived together since i got them. anyways i am planning to take them to the vet but in the mean time i was wondering if anybody had any idea what is wrong with them…one of them looks extremely bloated and the color has become much darker, the other one is extremely lethargic, has lost a lot of weight, barely eats and sleeps in a weird position everytime i see her. she also has dark patches on her belly. i have not changed anything with their tank but this has been occurring over the last week-two weeks. help
Some more info might help us know what could be wrong. How long have you had them? What is your setup like? What do you feed?
Sleeping in weird positions is normal but the other issues, such as dark patches, bloating and lethargy don’t sound good.
i have had them for over a year. theyre in a 55 gallon tank with two caves and driftwood, they have a heatbulb, a uvb bulb, a heating pad and a heating rock set up in a gradient. i feed them leafy greans that i soak before i put in and every once in a while they get crickets and waxworms
They should be fed other vegetable matter than greens, such as seeds, lentils, squash, flowers, etc. Check out our Uromastyx Diet page for more details! We generally don’t encourage feeding bugs, as they can lead to issues such as fatty liver disease, excessive uric acid levels leading to gout, and other digestive complications. A bug once or twice a month might not be unsafe, but we don’t have enough data to show what a “safe” level of feeding animal protein might be.
Otherwise, your setup sounds good. Do you know what your “hot” side temps are compared to your “cold” side? Too hot or cold can mess with their basking behavior, which can also affect digestion.
they do get seeds but i will try feeding things other than greens and see how that works. as far as the bugs they do only get a couple every few weeks when my other pets get their bugs. .when my one stopped eating the greens the wax worms were the only thing she would eat. i am not sure what temps each side, what should they be ideally?
80-85 on the cool side, and the basking spot should get to 110-120 degrees. They really like it hot, and it helps them digest food. However, the cool side is necessary for them to retreat when they get overheated. I rarely see mine on the cool side, except when ambient room temps get above 90. Focus on temps and a varied diet, but a vet trip is important also, they can diagnose or rule out problems like parasites, MBD, etc. You’ll probably want a fresh poo sample if possible. Good luck with your uros!
have a morrocuan uro — been fine – not eating , lethargic, in a glass aquarimin with uvb light. he is extremely thin —used to be spunky when picked up now not even opening eyes. he ate green bean yesterday but is not eating well at all. looks very bad —any ideas.
Poor thing! We always advocate a trip to the vet when you suspect something is wrong. However, the cause could be husbandry so in addition to consulting a professional, you can ensure you are providing the best housing.
How large is the tank? What are your warm side and cool side temps? Unless it’s a combined heat bulb like a Mercury Vapor Bulb, UVB bulbs don’t provide much heat. UVB can cause eye issues, so be sure you are following the directions on the minimum space required. Some UVB bulbs have been found faulty in the past; you might want to research the bulb brand and lot number.
What is your diet like? Be sure to provide plenty of variety. Our Uromastyx Diet page can provide you with safe foods to offer your uro. Do you provide any supplements?
The tank is twenty gallons, warm and cool side temps are 110 and 88. His diet mainly consists of steamed vegetables like green beans, corn and peas, and chunks of collard greens. I do sprinkle some Calcium powder on his food a few times a week. Do you think maybe it could be dehydration??
I think there are a couple things you could improve, starting with a larger cage. I recommend a 40 gallon tank for one adult, because it’s difficult to maintain a good heat gradient and high basking temps, and they also love to run around and the more space, the better. If you could get your temp up to 115, that would be good – however, your cool end should be the low 80s. It’s very difficult to do in a 20 gallon. You can use stacked slate (be sure it is secure) to get closer to the basking light to reach the ideal temps.
Second, the main portion of the diet should be leafy greens. Collard greens are good, but they are high in goitrogens – as are green beans and peas. Spring Mix salads are perfect as a base, and you can add different uncooked greens like collards, turnip & mustard greens, dandelions, endive/chicory, and edible flowers. Additionally, various winter squashes like butternut and acorn are fantastic. Check out the diet page for a full list of what’s good for them. I’ve been able to get most of their foods from the grocery store, but specialty “farmer’s market” are great, and it’s usually quite cheap.
Dehydration could be a contributing factor, as the 20 gallon will quickly dry out the food. I would recommend a moist hide as a retreat, to give the uro the option of regulating both temperature and hydration. It’s not good to leave water in the enclosure all the time, but a light misting once or twice a week in the morning might be suitable, depending on your substrate. You could put in a shallow lid with water in it, but uros are more likely to lick water off of their food or off of the walls of the tank, as they would drink morning dew in the wild.
Good luck with your uro!
All right, thanks for the help!
Hi, this is Hannah again. I’m really worried about my Uro, he hasn’t moved for two days now. Won’t even open his eyes when i pick him up, won’t eat, EXTREMELY thin. There are no vets around my area who know anything about lizards, i’m afraid i might have to force feed him. I know it’s traumatic for them to be force-fed, but i don’t think i have another choice. He’s really really bad. Any tips on what to do? Pedialite? How much? How often should i do it?
When Uros go downhill, they get bad pretty fast and really need vet attention. Have you tried looking on http://www.herpvetconnection.com/ or http://www.herpcenter.com/reptile-vet-finder/.
The problem with force feeding uros is that if they have an empty stomach and are dehydrated, eating just makes it worse. They need to be re-hydrated, and the best way to do that is with fluids injected directly into them. Tube feeding is also something you don’t want to do on your own, you need a qualified vet to help you out. It’s nearly impossible to open their mouths, as they have very strong jaw muscles, but a vet can get a tube in the front part of their mouth. If you can dropper-feed Pedialyte, that might help hold him over until you can find a good herp vet. Offer fresh, moist green leafy veggies that are low in protein and make sure you’ve got a proper heat gradient and access to a humid retreat. Unfortunately, that’s the only advice I have. Good luck!
Hello all!
I got my uro about 2years ago. When we got him we would take him out everyday and he use to sun bathe on his rock and climb on his tree. Nowadays he barely moves and sometimes we think he is dead. We fed him corn and peas everyday and sometimes green beans. Sadly, last night, when I went to go up to my bed, helooked frozen. I picked him up and tried to move him by placing him on his rock, but he just fell over on to his back, still frozen. I can back a while latwr and he had gotten up an went into his rock. Is he really sick? Please HELP!!!!
Hi one of my Euromastix has recently stopped eating and looks very thin. I notice that he has this weird looking reddish brown hard looking scab on his teeth. I don’t know what it is but there are no vets for reptiles near our small town.
What is your normal diet? If you are located in the North, your Uromastyx might think it’s time to start slowing down for winter, when it’s normal for them to stop eating as much. What are your temperatures in the tank, and how large is the enclosure?
The scab on his teeth doesn’t sound good. Is it possibly stuck food? Sometimes ground beans or tortoise pellets can stick to their mouths so you might want to remove anything like that and stick to greens for a while.
I’m looking to buy another Egyptian uromastyx. Do you know of anyone who sells these? The last place I got them from won’t work, for right now.
Thanks.
Marissa
You can try Doug Dix at Deer Fern Farms or Lindsay Pike at Urotopia.com. I don’t think either of them actively breed Egyptians but if anyone can help you locate one, I’m sure they can! Otherwise, you might find some at local reptile shows. Good luck!
Hi my Uromastyx is having some issues currently. It seems her neck and around her head have swollen and she is having difficulty breathing. About last week she was having trouble going to the bathroom but we soaked her and she can do that now. But this just came up and we want to help her in any way we can but we don’t know what to do.
What are you currently feeding? Sometimes foods high in goitrogens can cause goiter – a swelling of the neck around the thyroid gland. The difficulty breathing may be due to the swelling or could be signs of a respiratory infection. Soaking can bring on RI, but it is sometimes necessary treatment for dehydration or bowel troubles like you experienced. What is your enclosure like? Sometimes improving husbandry can help relieve certain illnesses but a vet check might be necessary.
hey its spencer again!
My lizard is still having issues shedding since the last time i messaged you his skin is all gross. Ive been told to soak him once and a while but it doesn’t seem to be working. I don’t know what to do to fix his skin !
HELP ME..
Uromastyx are typically slow shedders. If there is nothing wrong with the underlying skin, then I would just leave him alone. Make sure he has logs or rocks he can rub against to assist shedding. Too much humidity or baths can cause skin irritation. You can use a product called Shed-Aid if you really feel there is a problem. Be sure to dry him thoroughly with a hair drier if you bathe him.
Hi, I’m not sure where to post. But my uro always hides. Except to come out and eat. I find that he never leaves his little cave and when I force him to he stays out for ten seconds then runs away. And if he’s eating and sees someone moving or looking at him, he runs back. I haven’t found any poop in a few weeks either. But he is eating? I’m nervous.
This care sheet is a joke you should never ever soak a Uro. If its sick or acting weird take it to a herp vet and stop getting poor information off of the Internet.
I’m sorry if you disagree with the information here, John. Some soaking may be warranted for a bowel impaction or dehydration under the advice of a vet, but too much can definitely lead to respiratory infection or tail rot. It’s definitely not something to do routinely just because you think they need it, like a bearded dragon. I encourage all readers to evaluate information online and even from some vets who may not be experienced with uros or reptiles in general.
Try putting up paper along the tank so he doesn’t see you or other people. Make sure your temps are good on the warm and cool side, including the basking spot. Often they are shy but if they hide all the time it’s not good if they don’t eat and don’t get to their optimal temp of around 120 in the basking light.
Hi,
My lizzard is a constant brown color. He is 10 years old, and i feed him collard greens.i’m concerned because i see others that are multi colored. Should i be worried?
Depending on the species you have, being brown might be his normal colors. Females also tend to be more subdued in color. If you have him set up properly, he is probably fine. Uromastyx tend to be lighter when they are warmed up, but this can vary by species.
Hi, I bought a very young Uromastyx (not sure what species, but was listed as a Mali). It was shipped here, ate romaine when offered the first day, was moved again as carefully as possible (kept warm), has temps 80-120 and UVB. It has not eaten in a few days. I offered romaine, escarole, endive, chicory, mustard greens, dandelion greens, mazuri, and even a water bowl. help! Has lost almost half his weight now…
I would have him checked for parasites! Make sure the enclosure is warm and well-lit; dark enclosures seem to cause them to stop eating. This is the time of year when they go into brumation, a state of semi-hibernation where they stay hidden and don’t eat much. However, it can be problematic if they’ve lose a lot of weight so get him checked out by a vet and make sure the enclosure is correctly set up. Good luck!
Hi I’ve had my uromastyx for about a month and when I first got him he was active and seemingly cheerful, however for the past week I hardly see him come out from under his rock. I am not home for 13 hours (6am-7pm) and I never see him during the day, so I don’t know what he’s like then. He’s just a baby and I feed him all different sorts of greens, twice a day, but I never get to see him move. I try to take him out once a day but recently he hasn’t been responding well to being picked up. If I need to stop handling him more, is there a time when I can start handling him everyday again? Or does he just not know me well enough yet?
Hi, my name is Jamie and I have some concerns about my baby uromastyx. I’ve had him for a couple months now and he was acting normal and eating well, but for the past month or so he has been very lethargic and barely eating. I offer him a variety or greens, veggies, and lentils daily but he wasn’t been eating them. He has not lost any weight but I’m concerned that he hasn’t been eating a lot. I was wondering if maybe since its winter outside maybe his metabolism has slowed down? Also lately he is always hiding and he never comes out to bask anymore. If anyone can tell me if this is normal, or it is a more serious condition it would he greatly appreciated. Thanks.
It’s normal for Uromastyx to go into brumation where they stay in their hides and don’t eat. Our Uros generally do this Oct-February, with Dec & January the months they are very lazy. They usually resume normal activity levels in mid-late February and get very active in the Springtime. However if you see anything that you think may mean he is sick, you should take him to an experienced reptile vet just to be sure. Good luck!
It’s normal for Uromastyx to go into brumation where they stay in their hides and don’t eat. Our Uros generally do this Oct-February, with Dec & January the months they are very lazy. They usually resume normal activity levels in mid-late February and get very active in the Springtime.
What species of Uromastyx? Not all are very tolerant of handling, and most prefer to be left alone. The way you approach them for handling is important as well. If you have a top opening tank they tend to spook more because you are effectively swooping in like a predator to extract them from their home. A front opening tank is easier, but you can work with a top-opening tank as well. Start by using their favorite foods as a hand-fed treat. Usually edible flowers, squash and green peas are the best treats. Build up trust and the little Uro might start responding well and climb into your hand to get more treats. Then you can lift him out and interact. However, I don’t recommend lifting them out of their tanks every day, but hand feeding greens once they trust you can be done daily. Don’t overdo the treats.
Good luck!
How often should a Mali shed during the winter?
This is a really great site. I have been looking for one that is about fact and not just opinions!
I have a 13 month old uromastyx in a 75 gal aquarium with natural rock and log bask areas plus caves. The heating and lighting consists of an under tank heat pad plus zilla reptile lighting and additonal heat lamps at the basking side of the tank. Recently she has started to shed in larger chunks on the body(which I understand happens as they mature)as opposed to smaller, flakier peices. My concern is it’s taking a long time and the tail and two front legs are showing no sign of shed yet. She is staying out on the rocks at night as opposed to going into her den which is highly unusual for her. I hear horror stories of repiles loosing legs and tails to improper sheds and want to make sure that doesn’t happen to her. How do you tell if a shed is not going well? She hates to be handled so I am reluctant to bath her. I have been misting the side of the tank every second day.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Many thanks
They all shed at different rates, more when they are young and growing, and less as adults. If your Mali is still active and eating he may shed a couple times over winter brumation – not all Uros react to winter or other seasonal changes. So if he’s been less active this season, it would be normal to not shed at all or shed less frequently. Hope this answers your question!
If you maintain a good level of low humidity within the tank (max of 30%), you should offer her a humid retreat so she can regulate her needs. Misting can work, but during sheds it can be insufficient as it dries up during the day. A tupperware or other plastic tub will do fine, you can put moist sand or a mix of sand and peat in the box. You need to cut an access hole that she can fit through. Ideally she should always have access to a humid retreat but you can put this in during times of shedding. Most people mistake dry enclosure to mean they shouldn’t have any access to humidity. However, in nature their burrows go deep underground where relative humidity is around 65%. Sleeping in this slightly moist burrow minimizes dehydration while they sleep.
Don’t pull off the shed as this can hurt them. Bathing is an option but should be a last resort if you see the shed forming restrictive bands around the legs, wrists or tail. It can stress the Uro out, and they can get water in their lungs and develop respiratory infections. Good luck with your uro!
Thank you all so very much. She isn’t eating much so I will definately try the humid retreat tonight. I really did not want to bath her.
Hello , in October i took in 2 uros , in from a bad situation a Egyptian uro and a Mali uro , they were both eating and very active , but now the Egyptian uro has stopped eating , she has not eat in 14 days i soaked her and she pooped but that was 8 days ago,,, ive given soaks since than to keep her from dehydration, ,, if you look at her she looks healthy , yes she has lost some weight but she was over weight so she looks great,,, ,you mentioned they go through brumation ,, could this be whats shes doing ,, if so how long will they go without eating and pooping ,, and how long can they go without food ? ive been so worried i went and got all new bulbs thinking maybe they needed changed and i started trying to force feed her ,, thats not going too well,, ive gotten very little in her ,, i just dont want to stress her out ,,
Hello, i have a few questions as im in the midst of attempting some breeding a lovely pair of saharans. First off i have them placed in tanks directly beside eachother. ive introduced the two of them twice now, since they have met and breeding has been attempted by my male. (she rolled over) he cannot stop following her up and down the cage bobbing his head constantly. He seems very admit in his desire but how do i encourage her acceptance? They will soon be housed in a 70gallon enclosure together as a pair and id like to know if this will stop.
My uromastyx is 4.5 years old. She is perfectly fine until she eats..then she gets very shaky, her arms dont’ move or don’t move well and her breathing is very labored. This has been going on for the last 4 nights….the first night I thought she was going to die…she could barely move.
I am feeding her baby romaine lettuces, something she has eaten hundreds of times…. Unfortunately I made the mistake of feeding her red cabbage a few days ago, that was the first night she was really shaky but now even after I’m back to her old food, she tremors after eating….
That doesn’t sound good! Romaine lettuce is fine in moderation, but they need a wide variety of greens, vegetables, legumes & seeds in their diet. Please see our diet & feeding guide to review safe foods for your Uromastyx.Trembling is a sign of calcium deficiency and the labored breathing could be related or could be a respiratory infection. A vet trip is the best advice I can give, in addition to checking your feeding routine and overall husbandry. Good luck!
You will need to keep an eye on them, as pairs do not always get along after mating and females in particular can be very protective of nesting sites. You may end up needing to remove the male to a different enclosure after mating, for the safety of both animals. Good luck!
Sounds like brumation! They maybe eat once a week or less often. They can go for a while without food but make sure to always keep it provided, as their guts work best with a regular supply of food. As long as they are coming out once a week or so to bask, they are probably either eating when you don’t see or are otherwise ok. Brumation can be very stressful on us humans because we don’t know whether they are becoming ill, dehydrated or emaciated during this period. If you notice a change of behavior, take her to the vet for a professional diagnosis. Good luck!
Recently our 9 year old ornate uromastyx was diagnosed with pin worms and a fungal infection. We were given a topical antiseptic and anti fungal and an oral med for the pin worms. His skin is almost cleared up. The original spots are gone, there are a few new ones we are treating. He just finished his last round of the wormer med. We noticed after the last round, when he eliminated there were red spots of the fungus that he had on his skin now ON HIS waste. He urinated at the same time, so we aren’t sure if it was from the urine or the poo. Have you heard of this with other malis? Also, we noticed new spots of the fungus on his belly and bottom of his paws after each time he eliminates since this fungal problem began. We have a call into the vet, but are searching the web for any info that may be helpful. The fungus is bright red and very small spots. We are told it is in the very beginning stages.
Also wondering if we should keep the heat lamp on all the time until Spike is feeling better. And should we add Veggie Dust or NutriBac df to his food?Thank you for any insight you can provide us.
Your website is a wealth of info for Mali parents.
just wanted to let you know about my Uro ,, i was force feeding her for over a month , her eating was picking up and she seemed to act better ,, one evening i went to get her out to feed her and she had passed
,,, just thought id let you know and thank you for your help and info ,,, as far as my other uro shes doing GREAT ,, once again Thank you
I don’t have any experience with a red fungus. I do know that sometimes their poo can have a little bit of red in it, either from the pigments in their food or they may have been dehydrated or constipated, causing a little tearing in the “poop shoot” so to speak. Once is not an issue but continually seeing red or other weird colors in the stool is a reason to see the vet. Is it possible the fungus colonized the waste AFTER it was eliminated? In that case you might want to disinfect the enclosure very well. Keep him warm, but not too warm and keep the lights off at night. If your heat lamp is a ceramic heat emitter (CHE), that’s good.
As for additives to the food, we recommend supplementing at least a few times a week unless you are feeding a very wide variety of foods. Adding either produce would not do any harm.
Thanks for the compliments!